A Moment of Silence

Yetanatha by Arno Kopecky (may you be blessed with endless waves through your travels)…

A moment of silence, please, for Alexander Solzhenitsyn, dead on Saturday, August 2 at 89 years of age – several decades more than the Russian lit-giant must have expected in his firing-squad-facing, gulag-archipelagoing youth. It was Philo Ikonya who reminded me; last seen heckling the readers at Sunday Salon, Ikonya was on the Open Mic stage at Club Sound by the time I walked in on Tuesday night, telling the audience about all the times she’d met the late Mr. S – first in a Nairobi slum, then again on Robbin Island, and yet again…

Maybe one day we’ll be telling kids about the people we met at Litfest. It was a special session of Kwani’s monthly Open Mic poetry night, maybe because this time the mic was only half open. Elitist, I know. But praise Allah for vets like Ikonya, David Ofiano, Nuru Bahati, and Imani Woomera, the Hawaiian Kenyan (how many of those do you know?) who cameo’d briefly on Ikonya’s heels with a trademark oceanic rhapsody that almost got me sprinting for Lamu.

Next up was the night’s main feature, Neema Mawiyoo, whose middle names I don’t have time to type. Neema’s one of the risin’est stars in Nairobi’s poetry circles. She started out with a series on memory, “something that’s been obsessing me lately,” which must mean she’s finally old enough to find it unreliable. I don’t know if the ‘goat meat’ song and chant she broke into halfway through her performance was related to childhood recollections, or if she’d switched themes by then, because at that exact moment I was accosted by the foulest-breathed man in east Africa; it smelt as though the man had eaten half a goat two weeks ago and left a quarter pound rotting in his teeth. I gagged my way through the introduction, exhaled in relief when he moved on, and spent the rest of Neema’s performance hyperventilating.

The mic opened up to the public after that, with predictable results: sooner or later, someone always starts to rhyme. I did enjoy the dramatic element of revenge that crept into the less inspired performances, though, however unintentional. All that romance, alliteration and rhyming caused an entire line of heads seated at the bar to look over their shoulders for the first time all night – having spent the night interrupting the poetry with loud drinking, their situation was finally reversed.

A distressing mass exodus followed the final intonations, with Binyavanga Wainaina, Wambui Mwangi, Angela Wachuka et al leading the charge to quieter environs. Left to wallow in the poetic aftershocks were myself, Tony Mochama and his girl Sharon, an enthusiastic Advanced Fiction workshopper named Betty-from-Meru (not sure about her writing, but she knew how to dance), and one Scisa Rumenge, a young filmmaker from Kakuma refugee camp. Rumenge was here on a special Litfest scholarship, having attracted the attention of Litfest co-organizer Dipesh Pabari through a number of award-winning films at last year’s Kenya International Film Festival.

“Every second here is like a year’s worth of learning for me,” Scisa told me, jolting me back to the greater realities that the Litfest was meant to address. “I’ve been living in that refugee camp for seven years now, ever since I escaped genocide in northeastern Congo.”
Not everyone, it suddenly occurred to me, ought to die before earning a moment of silence.

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Revisioning Kenya: 8th August

A symposium featuring 12 visionaries drawn from Kenya and abroad, these thinkers will impart their ideas on how to address and repair the issues thrown up by the post-election violence. We firmly believe that Kenyans have the ability to repair the recent damage and aim to feed into the groundswell of effort already growing nationwide. To this end Slum TV will film the speeches of the symposium, which will be available on internet and through established DVD distributors. A Kwanini short story book will also be produced and circulated countrywide. The symposium will close with a sumptuous event where speakers and attendees mingle and network.

Invited Speakers

Ambassador Bethuel Kiplagat (Kenya): of the Africa Peace Forum and a co-convenor of Concerned Citizens for Peace

Kevit Desai (Kenya):- Director of Engineering for Centurion Systems, Head of IEEE, member of Kepsa who organizes a large competion for university inventors each year and tries to find companies to produce the items commercially. His current focus is uses of ICT in rural areas

Farming Systems Kenya - They work with 20,000 farmers including the Kesses Farmers Marketing Federation, and have revolutionalized small-scale farming by harnessing the power of collective bargaining. By organizing farmers into marketing federations the federations have doubled produce prices for members while dropping input prices (esp. fertilizer and seed) considerably.

Irwin Chen - Expert on new media publishing

Reginald Ihejiahi (Nigeria) - Managing director and CEO of Fidelity Bank, and a serious financial operator, he will speak of the importance of merging and supporting art and literature and how words can affect a nation’s thinking.

Sarah Simons

Professor MK Musaazi (Uganda): An inventor with real practical solutions to African problems. Professor Musaazi was recently advisor to the TV programme Schools Shape Up, where a number of his workable solutions to homegrown issues are viewed in action. He will discuss inventions and their practical applications

Onesmo Ole Moi Yoi (Kenya): World famous bio geneticist and scientist with a simple, but radical way of thinking different

Rafique Keshavjee: Visionary entrusted with creating the Aga Khan University in Arusha and Nairobi on the creation of entrepreneurial spirit and the way to move Kenya towards self sufficient income generation.

Lamu Retreat: 10-15 August

Background

Lamu Town – our destination – is an ancient outpost of Swahili culture, a charming Islamic town of narrow streets and old traditions. It is part of the large and diverse Lamu archipelago, a series of beautiful islands. It is this combination of contradictions - its remote location, other worldly atmosphere, varied inhabitants and attractions, that makes Lamu so fascinating. It’s an easy place to explore – foot, dhow and donkey being the main modes of transport. We have arranged some trips to help you see the area:

Excursions

Boat trip to Kipungani
Our journey will take us around Lamu island, through the mangrove channels, past small coastal villages to a private and picturesque spot near Kupungani village. There, we will stop under the shade of a huge mango tree. There will be plenty of time to swim, explore the mangroves, fish from the dhow, climb the large sand dunes and visit the village. Meanwhile Doctor, a fantastic cook will prepare a traditional Swahili dinner, and local Giriama dancers will kick off the dancing. We’ll make our way back to Lamu around 10pm by moonlight.
Price: $35 pp for dhow, food and entertainment. Drinks not included.

Sunset Cruise
Gliding through the channel between Manda and Lamu in a sailing dhow, and weather permitting, into open sea. There’s time for a swim off Manda, and a warming cup of Arabic coffee and some halva (a local sweet) on board,
Price: $9 including coffee and halva

Flying Packages
All flights depart on 10th and return to Nairobi on 15th August on the Kwani special charter. We have secured a series of rooms in historic Lamu houses and guest houses at a very friendly rates for our literature lovers.

Please note that rooms will be allocated on a first come first serve basis. As these prices are exceedingly reasonable for peak season period you are strongly advised to book your space early.

Package	Price for flight and 5 nights accommodation
Flight and ensuite bathroom	Flight and shared bathroom	Flight and luxe room with A/C and access to pool	Flight and ensuite room with sea view	Flight and budget room shared bathroom
USD 560	USD 520	USD 650	USD 550	USD 465

Useful info

• As Lamu electricity is sporadic, it is worth investing in a torch for the week. Please sign the sheet and we will purchase one for you in Nairobi. Alternatively you can get one yourself from most supermarkets.
• Women, please take note that Lamu is a conservative society. Exposing too much flesh will result in someone asking you to cover up. Wear trousers/long skirts, and long sleeved shirts as much as possible.
• Lamu is essentially in which alcohol is frowned upon. There are some bars on the island and we too will be taking alcohol with us for consumption. Please be discreet and make sure you don’t offend the local population with drunken exploits.
• It is advisable to drink bottled water. Please also be sparing with washing water, as it is a scarce commodity in Lamu.
• Bargaining is an essential part of Lamu transactions, and a part of social convention. So practise those skills when purchasing items, or negotiating for transport of the boat or donkey variety.
• Please ensure you take cash to Lamu. There is one semi functioning cashpoint, credit cards are rarely accepted and cash is the only way to pay. Forget that at your peril!
• Mosquito repellent is advised in Lamu. Please bring some with you, or cover up to limit bites.
• The henna paint used to do tattoos is very strong and often results in indelible stains on bedroom sheets. Please be careful to wash off the henna to avoid having to purchase your newly dyed sheets.
• Don’t be afraid to ask directions. Often someone will offer to accompany you to your destination if you are wondering the streets looking lost. This is normal.

Bookings: litfest@kwani.org or call 0735 564 377

Literary Safari

Literary Wonderings along Kenya’s wildlife trails

3rd to 11th August, 2008

This year, the Kwani Literary Festival (KLF) has teamed up with Explore Kenya to offer a custom guided literary safari. Over the course of 9 days, this unique journey will combine five-star travel; wildlife viewing during peak migration season; an exclusive lecture series by internationally acclaimed Kenyan authors and a writer-in-residence who will accompany you on the trip; side trips to literary sites; a selection of gripping contemporary Kenyan literature; and personal time each day for reading, writing, round table discussions and relaxing.

Our literary trail will take us through three of Africa’s greatest wildlife sanctuaries teeming with zebra, giraffe, lion, cheetah, elephants, crocodiles, waterbuck, gazelle and some 300 species of birds: The Tsavo National Park, home to the once notorious Man Eater Lions; Nakuru National Park, set upon one of the last flamingo lakes in the world; and the Maasai Mara Game Reserve, Seventh Wonder of the World and host to the spectacular wildebeest migration.

During the trip, participants will be treated to a private lecture by renowned Kenyan writers from the Kwani stable, writers like Yvonne Owuor, Binyavanga Wainaina, Parselelo Kantai, Judy Kibinge and many more.

After the safari, there will still be time to catch up with the Litfest for its final four days in Lamu - the perfect way to unwind after nine days on the trail. Transport and accomodation for those so inclined will be organized by KLF.

Accommodation

Since 1902, The Sarova Stanley, Nairobi has hosted some of the world’s most recognizable names of acclaimed actors, authors, world leaders on royal and state visits to Kenya.

With its enhanced old charm and historic features, The Sarova Stanley remains a significant landmark in the center of Nairobi, where it shelters the famous message tree used by Hemmingway and others to post notes to one another, at the Thorn Tree Café.

Located within the world famous Maasai Mara Game Reserve, Sarova Mara Game Camp captures the true spirit of the Kenyan wilderness, in Kenya’s richest game reserve. Greatly renowned for its annual wildebeest migration and Big Five, Sarova Mara offers a breathtaking view of the plains aloft a hot air balloon.

Maili Saba Camp is a sanctuary of tranquility and conviviality that rejects the rigidity of modern life. Tucked away on the edge of the magnificent, dormant, Menengai Crater, accommodating only twenty pampered guests at a time. Maili Saba Camp embraces a warm casual atmosphere within African simplicity.

The first lodge ever to be built in a Kenyan National Park, Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge is superbly situated in the lee of Mount Kilimanjaro, encircled by volcanic splendour, adjacent to a teeming water hole and daily visited by vast herds of elephant, buffalo and plains game.

Anticipated Costs

$3,000 per person (double occupancy)
* price does not include drinks & gratuities

Fees include: luxury accommodations, transport in 4×4 vehicles, meals and beverages for travel listed on the itinerary; group transfers and ground transport; baggage handling; park entrance fees; the services of a qualified guide from arrival through departure; and gratuities, taxes and service charges.

Personal expenses and international airfares are not included.

Those who wish to join the final 4 days of KLF Lamu will carry an additional cost of approximately $700.
* price includes internal flights to and from Lamu, and simple accommodation.

[Photos courtesy of Teeku Patel].